London: Longman, Green, Longman & Roberts, 1860. Hardcover. Very Good. xiii, 328 pp, with 8 folding maps. In original dark red cloth stamped in gilt, with an image of climbers on a steep ridge on the front board. Light rubbing/bumping to corners, minor foxing to endpapers, minor soiling. Binding tight, contents clean, maps in excellent condition. Fifth edition, the first "knapsack edition," issued in a smaller format designed as "a convenient travelling manual for explorers in the higher regions of the Alps," without the colored plates, but with all the maps. One of the most famous works of mountaineering literature, this collection of climbing records and narratives led to the establishment of the Alpine Journal in 1863 (Neate A 32).
List 1: Mountains & Mountaineering
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Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 1998. First American Edition. Hardcover. Fine in a Fine dust jacket. 4to - over 9" - 12" tall. Signed by Chris Bonington on the half title page. 304 pages, extensively and beautifully illustrated with both color and black-and-white photographs and 59 maps. Features personal accounts of more than 50 of the world's most daunting mountains, each accompanied by a detailed topographical description of the main climbing routes as well as climbing history and practical information for climbers. Signed by Author(s).
1997. Soft cover. Very Good. Four-page photocopied typescript of Boukreev's remarks, on 8.5 x 11 paper, stapled at one corner and folded once horizontally. Boukreev--whose book The Climb describes the events of the tragic 1996 Everest climbing season from his perspective as a guide for Mountain Madness--here questions the effect of media reporting on the climbing community. He concludes "If mountaineers are to play this media game, we must learn very quickly how it affects our concentration, how it takes our energy, and how it feeds our ambition to succeed. This is a personal responsibility and every sportsman must make choices about these questions." Less than two months after writing these words, Boukreev died in an avalanche on Annapurna.
New York: St. Martin's Press, 1997. First Edition. Hardcover. Fine in a Fine dust jacket. First printing, signed on the half title page by both authors, with a brief inscription by Boukreev " To______ Namaste from the Himal!" dated 11/14/97, about a month before he was killed in an avalanche on Annapurna. This important book provides one of the several different viewpoints on the tragic events of the 1996 Everest climbing season, made famous by Jon Krakauer in Into Thin Air. Because Boukreev died not long after publication, signed copies of this book are quite scarce. This one, signed to a noted Pacific Northwest climber, is in as-new condition, and has a short article about Boukreev from the Seattle Times laid in. Signed by Author(s).
London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1956. First Edition. Hardcover. Very Good in a Good dust jacket. 360 pp, with 17 plates. Translated from the German by Hugh Merrick. Buhl's solo ascent of Nanga Parbat from the final camp (the first successful summit of the mountain) "ranks as one of the most outstanding feats in climbing history," according to Neate (B210). Buhl fell to his death on Chogolisa in 1957, while descending with Kurt Diemberger. This copy is signed by Diemberger on the half-title page. Boards have some light soiling, bottom corners bumped, bookplate on front pastedown, pages slightly rippled from storage in a humid environment. Jacket is rubbed at the extremities and has considerable soiling to the rear panel and some staining to the spine, but remains attractive overall.
Zurich: Wolfsberg. No Binding. Near Fine. Four-panel folding lithograph brochure, 18 x 44 cm when unfolded, undated but c. 1920s. One side entirely a color lithograph view of hikers overlooking Aletsch Glacier (the largest glacier in the Alps) from 11480 feet on Jungfraujoch, with other peaks identified in the background. The other side has two single-panel mountain views (comprising the front and rear panels of the folded brochure) and a sketch map showing the route of the Jungfrau Railway, as well as brief text in English, French, and German. The Railway, constructed between 1898 and 1912, runs from Kleine Scheidegg to the highest railway station in Europe at Jungfraujoch, almost entirely in tunnels cut through the rock of the Eiger and Monch. The lithographs are by Emil Cardinaux (1877-1936), a pioneering Swiss graphic artist known for his travel posters, which have recently fetched upwards of $15,000 at auction.
Salt Lake City, UT: Gibbs Smith, 1990. First Edition. Hardcover. Near Fine in a Near Fine dust jacket. First printing. 192 pp, illustrated with photographs, many color. Signed by Child under his name on the title page. Very slight bump to upper corners visible on book and jacket, else fine. Child, one of the leading mountaineering writers of his generation as well as a highly accomplished climber, provides compelling accounts of four different Himalayan expeditions--each with its own challenges, including the loss of his climbing partner, Pete Thexton, on Broad Peak. Signed by Author(s).
London: Museum Press, 1959. First Edition. Hardcover. Very Good. 224 pp, indexed and illustrated. Blue cloth boards lettered in gilt, no dust jacket. Mild wear to extremities and slight spine lean. Tightly bound and unmarked. No dust jacket. William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge was an American theologian and climber who lived much of his life in Europe, making many first ascents in the Alps in the 1860s-1880s. According to Neate (C58) he had "tremendous knowledge of the history of mountaineering, but was extremely quarrelsome."
Westminster: Archibald Constable & Company, 1895. First Edition. Hardcover. Very Good. 4to 11" - 13" tall. Large octavo (6-1/2" x 9-3/4") in publisher's vellum-backed cloth, top edge gilt; xii, 403 pages. With 100 full-page illustrations by A.D. M'Cormick. The scarce limited edition; copy #43 of only 100 numbered copies on thick paper. Very light, scattered foxing. Some darkening to the vellum. Conway was an art historian and accomplished mountaineer, who in 1892 led a large-scale mountaineering expedition to the Karakoram Himalayas, surveying the the Baltoro glacier and the region around K2. In 1894, he walked the length of the Alps from Monte Viso to Gross Glockner with two Gurkha soldiers, a gruelling journey that formed the basis for this popular work. (DNB; Neate C101).
London: Sampson, Low, Marston, Searle, and Rivington, 1888. Hardcover. Very Good-. Second edition, with corrections (first issued in 1887). viii, 180 pp, indexed, illustrated with 23 gravure plates (portraits) and several drawings in the text. Withdrawn library copy, with minor related markings. Call number covered and barely noticeable at head of spine, bookplate to front pastedown and remnant of one at rear, perforated stamp on title page. Boards lightly rubbed, worn at tips, 1/2 inch split to cloth at head of spine. Binding tight, hinges secure, pages clean and without foxing. Provides a history of the growth and development of mountaineering from 1387-1885, with sections on alpine accidents and winter mountaineering. This is followed by biographical sketches of the great early Alpine guides, accompanied by lovely portraits by Abney--himself a pioneer in the field of photography. Neate C156.
London: George Allen & Unwin, 1971. First Edition. Hardcover. Very Good in a Good dust jacket. 344 pp, indexed, extensively illustrated with b/w photos, maps. Translated from the German by Hugh Merrick. Signed by Diemburger on the title page. Boards are sunned at the edges; front board has a subtle stain. Binding tight, text unmarked. Dust jacket has chipping and rubbing to the spine and corners and several closed tears (some internally repaired with clear tape), with a small loss at the rear joint. Diemburger, a highly accomplished Austrian mountaineer, is the only living person to have made first ascents on two mountains over 8000 meters--Broad Peak in 1957 and Dhaulagiri in 1960. This book collects essays on many of his great early climbs in the Alps and Himalaya. Neate D26. Signed by Author(s).
Wyoming: Crandall Studios, Grand Teton National Park, 1932. First Edition. Hardcover. Very Good. 106 pp, with 16 illustrations from photographs, but lacking the folding map. Brown cloth with letting and mountain image stamped in gilt. Corners rubbed, rear board scuffed. Binding tight and square; last 30 pp a bit rippled. Signed by the author under his name on the title page. Fryxell was a geologist and climber who made many first ascents, as well as the first official Naturalist of Grand Teton National Park. This was the first book on technical climbing in the Tetons and remained the sole guidebook for many years. Neate F78. Signed by Author(s).
London: Hart-Davis, MacGibbon, 1977. Hardcover. Near Fine in a Fine dust jacket. Second impression of the revised edition of 1976, with ten additional chapters by Harrer and Kurt Maix. 312 pp, extensively illustrated with photographs and maps, one folding photographic plate. Signed on the title page by Harrer and expedition member Anderl Heckmair. Light dust soiling to top edge; very slight spine slant. In a clean, bright dust jacket protected by a mylar cover. Harrer, author of Seven Years in Tibet, provides a compelling account the history of attempts on the Eiger's north face, both successful and disastrous, and most notably his own first ascent with Heckmair, Ludwig Vorg, and Fritz Kasparek in 1938. One of the true classics of mountaineering literature. Neate H41. Signed by Author(s).
New York: Limited Editions Club, 1996. Hardcover. Fine. Quarto (9" x 13") bound in gray morocco-backed cloth, with an illustration in stone inset on the front cover. Beautifully illustrated with six photogravures produced from the author's original negatives. Copy #228 of 300 copies, signed by Harrer on the colophon. A compelling account the history of attempts on the Eiger's north face, both successful and disastrous, and most notably Harrer's own first ascent of the North Face with Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vorg, and Fritz Kasparek in 1938. One of the true classics of mountaineering literature. A fine copy, in the original cloth slipcase, also in fine condition.
Boston: James Osgood, 1872. First Edition. Hardcover. Good+. 8vo - over 7 3/4 - 9 3/4" tall. 292 pp, in original maroon pebbled cloth with beveled edges; publisher's device on title page. Cloth chipped at spine ends, corners rubbed, very mild spine lean, musty. Binding solid, text unmarked. One of the great classics of American mountaineering, western Americana, and nature writing. King was a geologist and a member of the 1864 California Survey when he made his famous ascent of Mt. Tyndall in the Sierra Nevada, which is described here, along with ascents of Mt. Whitney and Mt. Shasta and exploration of the Yosemite Valley. "King melded scholarship with carefully crafted descriptions to present a comprehensive and moving narrative of the mountaineering experience. King loved the mountains and hoped that his account would lead to increased preservation efforts, but he feared that his book would promote additional tourism and regional degradation. He was right on both accounts" (Sierra Nevada Museum). Howes K148; Cowan p. 328; Graff 2329; Neate K21; Zamarano 80 #47.
New York: Villard Books, 1997. Hardcover. Fine in a Fine dust jacket. First printing. 293 pp, w/b/w photos, map endpapers, bibliography. Clean and tight, with minimal wear. Inscribed by Krakauer to a fellow climber "with the greatest respect and admiration," on the half-title page. Laid in are a full color brochure that unfolds to poster size (about 16 x 25 inches) from Scott Fischer's company, Mountain Madness, with text from Fischer describing the achievements of 1995 and advertising the 1996 climbing schedule (including the fateful Everest trip, about which he says "My personal goal for '96 is to have everyone reach the summit"), as well as a smaller tri-fold brochure advertising the company's local rock climbing expeditions for the same season. Although signed copies of this book are relatively common, these ephemeral items are not, nor are copies with a warm personal inscription. Signed by Author(s).
New York: Discovery Books, 1999. First Edition. Hardcover. Fine in a Fine dust jacket. First printing, 227 pp, indexed, illustrated with color photos. Signed on the title page (with a very brief inscription) by Kropp, and also by Jon Krakauer, whose description of Kropp from Into Thin Air is quoted on the dust jacket. Laid in are the publisher's promotional materials, a photocopied review of the book from the New York Times, and a brochure from the 1999 Banff Mountain Book Festival, where Kropp was the featured speaker. Kropp cycled 7000 miles from Sweden to Katmandu before climbing Everest solo, without oxygen or Sherpa support. He was on the mountain as the disasters of the 1996 climbing season unfolded, and part of the book shares his perspective on those events. Early chapters provide a compelling account of the bicycle journey. Kropp was killed in a climbing accident in 2002, and signed copies of his book are quite scarce.
Expedia, 1992. No Binding. Near Fine. Expedia advertising poster, 16 x 20 inches, featuring a spectacular color photograph of climbers Ed Viesturs and Scott Fischer at the top of the Bottleneck Couloir at 27,000 feet on K2. Underneath the Expedia logo is their slogan "Don't just travel. Travel right," and underneath that is Viesturs' bold signature in black marker. The same photo is featured on the cover of Viesturs' book K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain. Viesturs and Fischer were nearly killed in an avalanche on this expedition. Fischer died on Everest four years later. One short tear to the left margin, not affecting the image; otherwise a lovely example of this uncommon item.
Seattle, WA: The Mountaineers, 1964. Hardcover. Near Fine in a Near Fine dust jacket. 94 pp, with bibliography, maps, line drawings, and spectacular black and white photographs of the peaks, passes, and valleys of the North Cascades. A fine copy but for one small stain on the title page. Dust jacket has mild edgewear and one short (1/4 inch) closed tear. Published shortly before Congress was to take up the question of whether North Cascades should be designated a National Park, and explicitly intended to promote public awareness of the beauty of the area, which was threatened by both mining and logging interests.
London: George Philip & Son, 1891. First Edition. Hardcover. Very Good. Translated from the German by E.H.S. Calder. xx, 404 pp, with color frontispiece and 20 additional plates (including 8 real photographs), illustrations in the text, and 3 folding maps. Index, bibliography, and detailed appendices on the geology, geography, flora (mosses, lichens), and insects of the region. Expertly recased, preserving the original pictorial cloth and endpapers. Boards somewhat rubbed, with one pale stain to the front board, but still attractive and quite sound, with all the maps and plates in excellent condition. Hans Meyer was a geologist and experienced climber who made four trips to the Kilimanjaro region in 1887-1889 culminating in his successful ascent--the first undisputed summit of Kibo, the highest of the mountain's three peaks--in 1889. In an earlier attempt, Meyer and his companion Oscar Baumann had the misfortune to arrive in the midst of an Arab revolt against German traders on the East African coast. They were captured and held hostage until a substantial ransom was paid. Meyer's ultimate success has been attributed to his recognition that the greatest obstacle to achieving the summit was the lack of food in the upper regions. He brought a sizeable and well organized party and established several camps on the mountain, allowing him to make multiple attempts at the summit without descending to the base. His lively and highly readable account of the expedition is arguably the most important work on African mountaineering.
San Francisco, CA: Sierra Club Books, 1989. First Edition. Hardcover. Near Fine in a Near Fine dust jacket. First printing. 223 pp, with 101 stunning full color photographs by Rowell accompanied by Muir's classic text, first published in 1912. Signed by Galen Rowell on the title page. One corner bumped, gift inscription on front blank, else fine. Dust jacket is price-clipped and bumped at the same corner. Published in celebration of the 100th anniversary of the founding of Yosemite National Park, the book includes an introduction by Rowell that pays homage to Muir and his critical role in the creation and preservation of the Park. Signed by Author(s).
Boston: Houghton Mifflin. Hardcover. Near Fine in a Very Good dust jacket. , per Kimes 381. Reprint of the 1918 edition, but the first with the editor's note from Bade. 391 pp, indexed, with 12 plates from photographs--most by Herbert W. Gleason. Publisher's green cloth boards with lettering and image of a tree in darker green. Very minor wear to corners, small spot on fore edge, else fine. In the scarce original dust jacket, which has light rubbing and a few chips and short tears, but is overall quite nice. A posthumously published collection of letters and articles that appeared in limited circulation during Muir's lifetime. Includes much material on Mount Shasta, Utah and the Mormons, Nevada, Washington, and Oregon. One essay describes an ascent of Mount Rainier, and another a trip to the Grand Canyon, which Muir was delighted to find unspoiled despite ease of access by rail.
London: J.M. Dent and Sons, 1947. First Edition. Hardcover. Near Fine in a Very Good dust jacket. First printing. 252 pp, indexed, with 32 pages of photographs and 5 pages of maps and diagrams. Mild foxing to endpapers, else fine. Dust jacket is price-clipped, has a chip at the head of the spine, on short tear, and some rubbing to the rear panel. "Murray was a prominent in Scottish rock and winter climbing in the 1930s, accomplishing many severe new routes" (Neate M186). He also wrote several climbing novels and general-interest books on the Scottish Highlands.
Seattle, WA: The Mountaineers, 1989. First Edition. Hardcover. Near Fine in a Near Fine dust jacket. 4to - over 9" - 12" tall. 213 pp, extensively illustrated with photographs and maps. Corners very slightly bumped, else fine, in a clean dust jacket with mild shelfwear. An important work containing detailed summaries of the location, access, routes, and climbing history of each of the 400 known peaks between 7000 and 8000 meters.
Seattle, WA: The Mountaineers, 1989. First Edition. Hardcover. Fine in a Near Fine dust jacket. 4to - over 9" - 12" tall. 213 pp, extensively illustrated with photographs and maps. As new, in a clean but slightly rumpled dust jacket. An important work by the distinguished mountaineering bibliographer, containing detailed summaries of the location, access, routes, and climbing history of each of the 400 known peaks between 7000 and 8000 meters.